Taking
the Ferry between NZ's Islands
Part 3 : Weather, Fares,
Miscellaneous
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This classic picture
shows the
Aramoana
battling its way through heavy seas off the coast of
Wellington in 1974.
Part of a three part series
on New Zealand's Interisland ferries - see also :
1. History and
Route Information
2. Vessels,
Journeys, Bookings
3. Fares, Weather, Misc
Part
of a series on travel to and in New Zealand -
click the links on the right hand side for more articles.
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Sometimes it is more expensive
to take the ferry than to fly between the North and South Islands of New Zealand,
and if you are paying to take a rental car with you, then the
cost equation can move further in favor of flying.
But the ferry is as much an
experience as it is a functional and low-cost means of
transportation and so you shouldn't limit your travel decision
merely to which way is the least expensive.
On the other hand, particularly
in NZ's winter, you need to consider the possibility of bad
weather making for a delayed, cancelled, and/or very rough
crossing.
Weather
Because
Cook Strait is a narrow stretch of water some 13 miles across at
its narrowest point, with a huge 'funnel' effect for the winds
and tides and weather in general caused by the 500 mile long
islands on either side of it, it can be, at times, very rough,
as shown in the above picture of the Aramoana struggling her
way through high seas off the coast of Wellington in 1974.
Some studies have claimed
Cook Strait
to be the second roughest stretch of water in the world (and
these same studies have suggested that Foveaux Strait between
the South Island and tiny Stewart Island at the bottom of the
South Island is the world's roughest stretch of water).
Of course, on a calm day, it
can be 'as smooth as a millpond' and you'll barely know you are
at sea, perhaps with just a brief couple of unexpected plunges
up and down as the vessel crosses the Terawhiti Rip around a bit
from the entrance to Wellington Harbor (you can often see a line
across the water where this rip is) and perhaps also, for those
passengers traveling from Picton to Wellington, a couple of
anxiety inspiring tosses of the ship as it goes through narrow
Tory Channel out of the Marlborough Sounds and into Cook Strait.
But on a bad day, you could
be in for a very 'interesting' journey, particularly for the
slightly more than one hour that you are in open waters (you
spend an hour in the Marlborough Sounds, about 40 minutes in
Wellington Harbor, and the balance crossing Cook Strait).
How to know if the sea will be
calm or rough
First of all, if you look at
a map, you'll see that the two islands are slightly offset, and
to travel from the North Island to the South Island, the ship
actually sails northwards over Cook Strait.
The opening in Cook Strait
is not so much in a north/south direction as it is more in a
west/east direction.
Look at the map again, and
you can see how the most exposed quarter leading to Cook Strait
is slightly east of from the south. And this is why it is
the southerly winds, blowing unobstructed up from the
Antarctica, that make the sea the roughest.
If the weather on the day
you are scheduled to cross shows strong to galeforce southerly
winds, get ready for a bumpy crossing. If the weather has
been blowing southerly winds for a day or more, then it will
have
really whipped the sea up into a fury, and you should expect a
memorably wild
crossing. And if there were strong southerly winds
yesterday but mild/moderate winds today, expect some 'hangover'
effect still passing on to the current day's sea state.
Don't worry about winds from
the north or west. It is the southerly winds that make the
crossing bad.
Delays and cancellations
Particularly after the
Wahine disaster (see below) the ferry operators are more willing
to cancel sailings if weather conditions are severe and safety
issues potentially compromised. Fortunately cancellations
are very rare - perhaps once a year or so, and when the services
are suspended, it is usually only for a day or so.
What to do about seasickness
See our two part series
about the
causes and cures of seasickness. This information and
advice will help you minimize the chance of getting unwell.
Schedules
Neither company operates an
easy to understand schedule which is the same every day in both
directions. Instead, there are various changes during the
week, and so you need to carefully make sure that the sailing
you wish to use will be available on the day you wish to travel.
Most people will start their
journey somewhere other than Picton if going north, and so will
want to take a crossing sometime after late morning, giving them
time to get to Picton first.
In the other direction, most
people will start their journey after overnighting in
Wellington, and so the morning sailings are more popular in the
southern direction.
You should check the two
company's websites for current schedule information.
Costs
In general, the cost of a
one way sailing across Cook Strait ranges from about NZ$45 -
NZ$75 per person, depending on if you can get a discounted fare
or not, and subject to occasional special discounts.
The two companies both have three fare categories, and Interislander also has
premium fares too. Although the fares are similar, Bluebridge is usually about $10
less
per person.
The cheaper categories of fares have limited availability
and more restrictions on them if you wish to change or cancel
your booking.
The cost of taking a car
with you also varies depending on the type of ticket, ranging
from about NZ$105 - NZ$170. Bluebridge again is the
slightly cheaper choice (although its cheapest car rate is a few
dollars more than the Interislander rate, the saving on the
passenger ticket more than compensates for this).
The fare for a car does not
include the passenger(s) traveling with the car.
If you are taking a larger
vehicle (eg a motorhome or a trailer) then the cost will
increase based on its length and possibly its height too.
Both companies offer senior
citizen and child discounts. The Interislander fares have
some additional discounts for, eg, families, and also for people
wishing to do a roundtrip sailing the same day as a lovely day's
outing (I used to often do this when living in Wellington).
Rental Cars
The complexities of what to
do with rental cars when traveling between islands will be
discussed subsequently in this series. Suffice it to say that
some rental car companies don't allow you to take their cars
across Cook Strait, whereas others require you to do so.
In the former case, you swap
cars on either side, returning one car somewhere close to the
ferry terminal and picking up another somewhere close on the
other side (the rental car companies typically provide pickup/dropoff/transfer
type services between their depots and the ferry terminals.
You'll save yourself NZ$100+
by not taking the rental car with you, and will also make it
easier to get the crossing of your choice without the additional
constraint of having to take your car with you.
A Personal Note
I had the great good fortune
to work part-time and semi-fulltime on what were then known as
'the rail ferries' in the mid 1970s, combining work at sea
variously with my academic studies and also with doing work with
one of the maritime union groups, helping to create a
transformational new 'Composite Agreement' between the various
shipping companies and the union. My first ship was the
lovely old Aramoana, and over several years I got to
serve on all four of the then ferries (plus the absolutely
gorgeous Rangatira on the Wellington-Lyttleton route), but Aramoana
has always been
my sentimental favorite.
It was - well - an
overwhelming experience for someone variously slightly less than
and slightly more than 20 years old; and for one vulnerable to
seasickness, it was also fraught with occasional challenges.
But, strangely, on the
roughest sailing I ever experienced, it was so 'exciting' and
awe-inspiring (I'll never forget looking out the porthole from
my cabin at one stage (we lived onboard for a week at a time) and seeing
an enormous wave about to
crash over the ship - it was so huge that it was deep sea green
in color) that I completely forgot to feel seasick!
That
sailing had us scheduled to do a typical 3 hr 20 minute crossing
from Picton to Wellington (these days it is slightly faster at 3
hr 10 mins), but after very heavy going across Cook Strait, the
Master decided it was too risky to attempt going through the
narrow channel into Wellington harbor, and so turned us back to
Picton, only to decide that it was also too treacherous to try
going through Tory Channel and into the safety of the always
placid Marlborough Sounds and back to Picton.
Eventually we ended up
sheltering in
Nelson, tied up there until the storm abated - I
forget how long in total we were at sea for, but I believe the
record for an interrupted journey is something like 25 hours.
The 1968 Wahine Tragedy
Talking about the bad
weather makes it unavoidable to mention NZ's tragedy in 1968
when one of the much larger ferries that used to travel between
Lyttleton (the port serving Christchurch) and Wellington was
thrown onto the rocks after entering Wellington harbor in a
severe storm with 100+ mph winds.
The vessel - Wahine - a
modern state of the art ship barely two years old - sunk some
hours later, with 51 passengers and crew (including one
stowaway!) losing their lives.
This
website offers a fascinating and detailed analysis of the
events.
For More Information
You can visit the websites
for the
Interislander ferries and the
Bluebridge
ferries for the latest on schedules, fares, and other related
things.
You might also want to visit
the
TranzScenic website (the passenger rail operator in New
Zealand) because they sometimes have discounted combination
ferry and train tickets for a complete journey between
Christchurch and Wellington available - see also our page
about rail travel in New Zealand
for more information about this and trains in general.
Part of a three part series
on New Zealand's Interisland ferries - see also :
1. History and Route
Information
2. Vessels, Journeys,
Bookings
3. Fares, Weather, Misc
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Originally published
20 Aug 2010, last update
30 May 2021
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